20,000 km Milestone: A Travelogue across Sanctuaries, Shrines, and Shores in the Tata Safari

Ever since the Safari became part of our family in 2021, a road trip has been on the cards. Although a few short excursions in and around Mumbai had taken place, a full-fledged journey was yet to materialise. In the year 2023, a last-minute holiday plan at Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary (BWS) provided the perfect opportunity.

We began planning how to maximise the experience and transform it into a proper road trip. This involved shortlisting places to visit, determining the route, arranging night halts en route, and allocating the number of days to be spent at specific locations. After much deliberation and consideration, a week-long itinerary was finalised: Thane – Hubballi (night halt) – Bhadra (BWS) – Baindur (night halt) – Murdeshwar – Karwar – Ganeshgudi (OMH) – Gondawale – Thane. The plan included wildlife observation, birding, visits to temples, and a meeting with an old family friend.

The next task was to prepare a detailed list of items to be carried with us. There was considerable excitement, as this was our first proper road trip with the Safari.

Day 0: The day was originally intended as a period of rest with only a few last-minute preparations. However, as often happens, there was no true rest. Owing to work-related commitments, all pending tasks were postponed until the final day. Far from being leisurely, the day soon appeared too short for the numerous activities that had to be completed before departure. With no alternative, we carefully planned and distributed the tasks to ensure that everything was accomplished. Once all bags were packed and placed ready for loading, we retired early, mindful of the early start awaiting us the next morning.

Day 1: 14 May 2023 (Approx. 593 km; 11.5 hours’ drive time)

With all the baggage loaded in the car, the three of us set out at a quarter past six. It took nearly an hour to reach the expressway. Given the early start, the first halt was planned relatively soon; after approximately two and a half hours of driving, we stopped at Food Carnival on the expressway. Following a brief 24-minute break, we resumed our journey on National Highway 48 (Mumbai–Pune–Bengaluru Highway).

The drive unfolded across a variety of road conditions: smooth four-lane highways, stretches under repair, and winding ghats. After Satara, we encountered long expanses of sugarcane fields flanking both sides of the road. While remarking that sugarcane juice in such a setting would be akin to nectar, we soon spotted a roadside juicing machine adjacent to one of the fields. Having missed the first stall, we remained alert and, within a few kilometres, found another. We stopped to enjoy fresh sugarcane juice, so refreshing that we could not resist a second serving. Revitalised, we continued on our way.

Shortly before Kolhapur, at around 14:40, we halted for lunch. Thereafter, the journey proceeded towards Hubballi. While passing through Dharwad, we observed the expansive campus of the Indian Institute of Technology, Dharwad, as well as the Dharwad Bench of the High Court of Karnataka.

We arrived in Hubballi around 19:00 and checked into Tara Emerald, a modest yet comfortable hotel conveniently located near both the airport and the highway. Conversations with the hotel staff introduced us to a small outlet near the bus stand, reputed for its authentic Davangere benne (butter) dosa. A generous serving of these dosas for dinner concluded the day, after which we retired for much-needed rest.

Day 2: 15 May 2023 (Approx. 255 km; 5 hours’ drive time)

Hubballi had been planned as a brief stopover, enabling us to reach Lakkavalli, the location of Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, around midday. After refuelling the car, we departed Hubballi at approximately 07:00. At Mahajenahalli, near Harihar, we left National Highway 48 and continued on State Highway 57 (Shivamogga–Harihar–Hospet Road).

Before departure, a local resident had advised us not to miss the famous mirchi bajji (chillies dipped in gram flour batter and deep-fried) at Komaranhalli Madhusudan Hotel, situated just after Malebennur. This spot lies roughly 155 kilometres from Hubballi. The establishment was modest—a small outlet housed in a hut beside the main road, easily overlooked. We had to make a few inquiries before finally locating it.

The speciality here was mirchi bajji served with either avlakki (flattened rice flakes) or mandakki (puffed rice), available throughout the day at a very modest price. The stall was run by a humble proprietor named Madhu, who appeared content in serving locals with these simple yet cherished delicacies.

The taste was exceptional. Patrons from surrounding areas frequented the place, either to eat on-site or to take parcels home. The steady queue testified to its popularity. For anyone travelling on the Davanagere/Harihar–Shivamogga route, a visit to this outlet is highly recommended.

Satisfied, we resumed our journey. The route from there comprised mostly single-lane roads cutting through small villages, forests, and hilly terrain. Along the way, we encountered villagers selling mangoes. Being a mango lover, I couldn’t resist purchasing a few.

We reached our destination around 12:30 and checked in at the River Tern Lodge.

Days 2–3: 15–16 May 2023 (Stay at Bhadra)

River Tern Lodge, operated by Jungle Lodges and Resorts under a Karnataka government initiative, is situated on the banks of the Bhadra River, adjacent to the Bhadra Dam and surrounded by the Baba Budangiri hill ranges. This beautiful resort, nestled in the Western Ghats, derives its name from the congregation of thousands of river terns that breed on a nearby island.

The lodge is located on a hillock at the edge of the Bhadra Reservoir, near Lakkavalli, close to the northern boundary of Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary in Chikmagalur district. The name “Chikmagalur,” meaning “little daughter’s village” in Kannada, is historically linked to a dowry once granted to a king’s beloved daughter. We had planned a two-night stay here, combining both boat and jeep safaris.

After lunch and a brief rest, we embarked on our evening boat safari across the reservoir, starting around 15:30. Our first stop was the island that hosts the breeding colony of river terns. The sight was remarkable—thousands of birds in various life stages: chicks, subadults, and adults. Particularly fascinating was observing adults feed their young, as well as males presenting fish as courtship offerings to females. From there, we continued along the periphery of the sanctuary. During the three-hour ride, we encountered herds of elephants, wild boar, Indian gaur, peafowl, a Great Thick-knee, a pair of spot-billed ducks, and several birds of prey perched majestically on riverside trees, along with numerous other waterbirds.

Our cottage overlooked the Bhadra Reservoir, offering breathtaking views. The hospitality of the staff was exemplary, and the meals were both generous and delicious.

The following day was devoted to jeep safaris. Bhadra Tiger Reserve, covering approximately 500 square kilometres across the Shivamogga and Chikmagalur districts, is recognised as a biodiversity hotspot. It consists predominantly of wet and moist deciduous forests, along with stretches of evergreen vegetation. Elevations range from 615 metres (2,018 feet) to 1,875 metres (6,152 feet) above mean sea level, supporting a diverse ecotype, including the distinctive shola forest and montane grassland complex.

The reserve is home to an estimated 33 tigers, 20 leopards, 150 elephants, and 120 gaur. Beyond the charismatic megafauna, the sanctuary offers opportunities to observe a wide range of mammals, reptiles, and more than 250 bird species, many of them endemic to the Western Ghats.¹

Entering through the northern gate near Lakkavalli in Chikmagalur district, we were fortunate to witness several notable species during our drives. These included sloth bear, gaur (Indian bison), spotted deer, barking deer, elephants, peafowl, kingfisher and hornbills, among others. The diversity of sightings underscored the ecological richness of this remarkable landscape.

Day 4: 17 May 2023 (Approx. 198 km; 4.5 hours’ drive time)

After completing the morning safari and breakfast, we checked out from River Tern Lodge around 11:30 and began our onward journey to Maravanthe. The drive followed National Highway 169A (Kundapur–Agumbe Highway), with the major challenge being the traversal of Agumbe Ghat (Someshwara Ghat), renowned for its breathtaking curves and treacherous bends. The ghat section stretches approximately 11 kilometres and features 16 hairpin turns. Having heard of its reputation since childhood, I approached this first encounter with some trepidation. However, our SAFARI vehicle managed the route smoothly.

At around 14:30, we stopped briefly for lunch before resuming the drive. After passing Kundapur, we joined National Highway 66 (Panvel–Kanyakumari Highway) and reached Maravanthe at approximately 16:00. The original plan had been to proceed directly to Murdeshwar and return to Maravanthe in time for sunset. Realising that this schedule would cause us to miss the evening spectacle, we adjusted the plan and instead checked into our pre-booked accommodation, Nandanavana Hotel and Lodging in Uppunda, Byndoor, around 16:45. After leaving our luggage, we returned to Maravanthe for the sunset.

Maravanthe, situated in Byndoor taluka of Udupi district, is famed for its unusual geography, with the Arabian Sea on one side of the highway and the Souparnika River on the other. This combination is said to be unique in India. However, with the construction of a new bridge and the widening of the highway, the twin view can no longer be appreciated from ground level; it is now best observed from an elevation or through aerial photography. The sunset was magnificent, enhanced by fresh coconut water from a beachside shack. We returned to the hotel with the intention of revisiting the beach the following morning for photographs in golden daylight.

Day 5: 18 May 2023 (Approx. 302 km; 7.5 hours’ drive time)

This day was relatively demanding, as the itinerary included visiting Murdeshwar for its temple, travelling to Karwar to meet family friends, and finally reaching Ganeshgudi by evening. We departed Baindur at 06:15, making a quick detour to Maravanthe beach. Unlike the crowds of the previous evening, the morning atmosphere was serene. After capturing a few photographs, we resumed our journey, arriving at Murdeshwar around 07:50.

Murdeshwar, a coastal town in Uttara Kannada district, is renowned for the Murudeshwara Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and the colossal 123-foot statue of the deity, which is the world’s third-tallest and India’s second-tallest Shiva statue. A twenty-storeyed Raja Gopura, constructed in 2008, stands at the temple entrance. Visitors can take a lift to the top for a panoramic view of the statue, framed against the Arabian Sea.

The temple is steeped in mythology. According to legend, Ravana, the demon king of Lanka, had obtained the divine Atma-Linga under the condition that it must never touch the ground before reaching its destination. Fearing Ravana’s potential immortality and ensuing tyranny, the gods devised a ruse. Near Gokarna, Vishnu created the illusion of dusk, knowing Ravana would pause for his evening rituals. Lord Ganesha, disguised as a young Brahmin boy, offered to hold the Atma-Linga during the rituals. Seizing the moment, he placed it on the ground. When the illusion ended and Ravana realised the trick, he attempted to uproot the Linga, scattering fragments across the region. One such fragment landed at Mrideshwar (later Murdeshwar) on Kanduka Hill, where the present temple now stands.

After the darshan and taking in the view from the Gopura, we resumed our journey along the scenic coastal stretch of NH66, reaching Karwar around 11:30.

At Karwar, we spent cherished time with family friends who had recently moved there. Our conversation flowed easily, covering their new life in Karwar, our travel experiences, our children, and memories of earlier times. A sumptuous home-cooked meal added to the warmth of the visit. Though we wished to linger longer, our schedule required departure, as the next leg of the journey passed largely through forested terrain.

We left Karwar at 16:35. Crossing the Kali River Bridge, we continued on State Highway 34 towards Ganeshgudi. The drive traversed the lush landscapes of Anshi National Park and Kali Tiger Reserve. We reached Old Magazine House, Ganeshgudi, at 19:30.

The remoteness of the resort, coupled with the chorus of cicadas and the occasional call of nocturnal birds, created a serene atmosphere that promised an immersive wildlife experience over the coming days.

Day 6 and 7(Morning): 19/05/2023–20/05/2023 (Stay at OMH, Ganeshgudi)

Old Magazine House, another eco-tourism property run by Jungle Lodges and Resorts, is situated deep in the forests of the Western Ghats. True to its name, the lodge occupies the site of a former British-era ammunition storage facility, now repurposed as a rustic yet charming nature camp. The setting is simple but tranquil, with cottages and dormitories designed to blend seamlessly into the environment.

Surrounded by dense deciduous woodland, the property is celebrated as a “birder’s paradise.” The camp offers a rare opportunity to experience forest life at close quarters, with the constant presence of bird calls and the tranquillity of an unspoiled natural setting. Staying here felt less like being a visitor to the forest and more like becoming part of it.

During our time at OMH, we participated in several activities. A guided nature walk around the campus allowed us to appreciate the diversity of flora and smaller fauna inhabiting the area. We also explored a trail within the government timber depot, which, despite its utilitarian function, provided good opportunities for birdwatching. A highlight of the stay was hide birding within the camp itself, where one could sit quietly in strategically placed hides and observe avian species from close range without disturbing them. Among the many resident birds sighted were several notable species, like Malabar-pied Hornbill, White-cheeked Barbet, Malabar Parakeet, Bulbuls, Spider Hunter, Sunbirds and Vernal-hanging Parrot.

Owing to limited time, we were unable to undertake the coracle boat ride on the Kali River, an activity OMH is also known for. Nevertheless, the immersive experiences of walking, observing, and birding within the forested environment provided a fulfilling and memorable stay.

The food here was simple yet delicious, prepared in a homely style and served with warmth by the affectionate staff. Each meal felt comforting, adding to the rustic charm of staying amidst the jungle.

Day 7: 20/05/2023, Post Noon (373 km; approx. 8 hrs. drive time)

After our morning trail at the Timber Depot, we had breakfast, freshened up, and checked out from OMH at 12:05. To reach National Highway 48, we chose not to follow the Google Maps suggestion of the Ramnagar–Khanpur–Belagavi route. Instead, we opted for the locally recommended road via Ramnagar and Kogliagiri, continuing along NH67 and then an unnamed road to Kittur. Once on NH48, we proceeded steadily toward Karad, pausing only for two brief breaks for snacks and tea.

Near Nadlapur, we exited NH48 and continued on NH166E. After Karad, we followed SH69 (Karad–Vaduj–Dahiwadi) until Pingali, where we joined 548C (Satara–Pandharpur), leading to Gondawale.

We reached Gondawale around 21:00. Since we were already late, we headed straight to the Brahma Chaitanya Dhyan Mandir for a quick darshan and prasad (dinner). The rice and rasam served as prasad at dinner have tasted exactly the same over the years—simple, comforting, and familiar. After finishing dinner, we checked in at a homestay located right in front of the Mandir.

Day 8: 21/05/2023 (328 km; approx. 7.25 hrs. drive time)

Gondavale, a small town in Satara district, Maharashtra, about 64 km from Satara, is mainly known for the shrine (Sansthan) associated with the Hindu saint Brahmachaitanya, popularly known as Gondavalekar Maharaj (1845–1913). He was a devotee of the Hindu deity Rama and taught the practice of japa meditation with the 13-character Ram Naam mantra "Śrī Rām Jai Rām Jai Jai Rām" as the path to spiritual growth and enlightenment.

We woke up early to attend the kakad arti (first prayer in the morning) at 04:30 in the Dhyan Mandir. I particularly love the dollop of freshly churned butter with sugar that is distributed as prasad right after the prayer— a simple offering that feels uniquely special. With this ritual completed, we prepared for the final leg of our road trip home, with just one planned stop en route.

We left Gondawale at 07:40 and drove to Limb, about 72 km away and 16 km from Satara. There, we visited Baramotichi Vihir, an impressive stepwell built of black stone between 1719 and 1724 by Virubai Bhosale, a secondary wife of Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj. The structure, octagonal in design and resembling a carved Shivling, measures 110 feet in depth and 50 feet in diameter. Originally constructed to provide water for some 300 mango plantations, the stepwell remains a striking example of early eighteenth-century engineering and design. After spending about an hour exploring the site, we departed Limb around 10:30.

Just a few kilometres onward, we rejoined NH48. At around 14:15, we stopped for lunch at the Food Mall, located just before the second toll plaza on the expressway. After a quick meal, we resumed our drive at 15:00 and finally arrived home at 16:50—our journey concluding with hearts full of experiences and memories.

This trip marked the first long-distance expedition for our Tata Safari. Over the course of eight days, we covered approximately 2,085 km, with a total driving time of about 44 hours. Roughly half the distance was on national highways, while the remainder comprised state highways, narrow village roads, forest routes, and winding ghat sections. The Safari handled all terrains gracefully. The drive was consistently smooth, safe, and remarkably free of fatigue. We encountered no mechanical issues, and the vehicle’s road presence provided a strong sense of security throughout the journey.

In terms of efficiency, the vehicle averaged 16.7 km per litre on the first day’s highway stretch, with the overall trip average stabilising at 15.3 km per litre. By the journey’s end, the odometer proudly recorded the 20,000 km milestone— a perfect milestone to mark such a memorable trip.

Some more pics from the wild side